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July 28, 2008

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ORIEL Gigondas Jocunda 2005 (91 points, $35)

A restrained, aromatic style, with lots of spice box, tobacco and incense notes leading the way for blackberry, currant, braised beef and tar notes. The finish really gains steam, with nice riveting acidity underneath. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Made by Louis Barruol of St.-Cosme. Drink now through 2012. 1,000 cases made.

--James Molesworth